The Eighth Wonder of the Natural World: Royal Wootton Bassett Mud Springs by Rebecca Davies BSc. (Hons)
Introduction to the Royal Wootton Bassett mud springs
From time to time something gets discovered that is new and surprising. Royal Wootton Bassett mud springs are definitely new and surprising. These are springs that instead of upwelling water, as springs generally do, produce goopey clay mud.
Geological map
Cross section diagram
History
So say in 1974 the staff of Wootton Bassett sewerage works were investigating a flow of mud into their stream. A fields length upstream from the sewerage works was a copse of trees, surrounding a marshy area. Here they decided to dig. Pressure was released, and SPLAT! Mud showered everywhere, coating the surrounding trees. Following this astounding event, powers that be called for the Geologist W. I. Stanton to investigate. He wrote about the interest of the site, but to no avail.
It has been known for cattle to disappear and such an area is hazardous. Many have lost their boots in the spring and one investigator ended up in up to his armpits.
The spring is well within walking distance of the town’s venturesome children and children might well want to investigate such an unprecedented location for getting dirty. Thus, those in charge had to take action to render the location harmless. So they tipped a hundred tons of rubble into the spring in 1990 to make it `safe`. This disappeared without a trace, except maybe an equal amount of mud squeezed out into Hancock water. So then council officials had to clear that.
These springs are deep…bottomless even … DO NOT APPROACH!!
1994
It was in 1994 that this phenomenon was further investigated, studied and reported in scientific papers and even the international press. Suddenly the quiet town of Wootton Bassett (these were the days before it was `By Royal Appointment` and was then known as the town with four sets of double letters in its name…) became a sensation.
Then someone suggested that this seemingly endless source of mud might have useful qualities. Some claimed hat Wootton Bassett was actually a spa town in Georgian times. Indeed there are salt springs in the locality. In Purton Stoke for example.
Eric Hodges, when a councillor for the town, campaigned to have the springs accepted as a World Heritage Site. He proposed the building of viewing platforms and interpretative boards. And, presumably, long sticks for poking supplied. Sadly this appealing project was never accepted. But in 1997 did get designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).
Nowadays the furore is over. But the mud springs still produce mud.
The geology of the mud springs
Ordinary springs are a common enough feature of the landscape, why is this special?
The local geology consists of Oxford clay, capped with the limestone known as Coral Rag, forming the ridge that Royal Wootton Bassett stands upon. Covering over that is Ampthill clay.
The water flow originates in the Coral Rag layer, under enough pressure to force it up through the normally impermeable clays. Forced out as the mud it forms a blister of material, added to when the springflows strongly, in the winter and after heavy rain.
Mud springs diagram
Scale Plan
The fossils
The mud springs are an upwelling of material from the Ampthill clay, clay that itself is rich in fossils. This washes out into the stream, which is in consequence a good hunting ground for them. Found there are many ammonites, belemnites, sharks teeth and the occasional bone.
My visit
Shame on me, I have never visited this fascinating place. I recall reading about it in the 1990s, when it was very much in the local news. I have also walked along the canal; but never crossed the field to the copse.
Time to rectify that.
There is no doubt the springs are dangerous. Though – as far as I know – mercifully never a location for human fatality. I aim not to change that. But I intend to get a good photo of them, and find some fossils.
The mud springs themselves lie in a grove of trees called Templars Firs Copse, alongside a stream. This stream is called Hancocks water and is a tributary of Brinkworth brook. That in turn flows into the Bristol Avon. It is just south of the popular walk along a restored section of the Wilts and Berks Canal.
A stretch of the Wilts and Berks Canal
From the towpath you cannot see anything special.
From the towpath
And there they are – securely fenced off.
Royal Wootton Bassett Mud Springs
Royal Wootton Bassett Mud Springs warning sign
I decided discretion was best when approaching the stream. The ground underneath was very slippery, and the stream was in spate. With its melodious gurgling it stood in stark contrast to the silence of the springs themselves.
Steam
Somebody had been digging in the stream bed.
And had excavated a quantity of stream gravel, which they had picked over for fossils.
I, personally was more interested in the everyday geology.
Coral rag
Clay
Chert
Conclusion
The mud springs are an unusual but not unique geological feature. There are other examples of this, -a bit further to the east on Greenhill Common, just south of the A3102.
As for the provocative name? A red herring. I think. Temple/Templars names in Britain often refer to the Knights Templar, who had properties all over Europe. But this time it refers to Templars Firs, a belt of trees between the railway and the canal. Planted buy someone surnamed Templar …
Thank you very much to Melinda Lewis and Luis Albornoz-Parra of the British Geological Survey for their advice and encouragement. My geology is shaky.
Bibliography
BRISTOW, C. R., GALE, 1.N., FELLMAN, L. & COX, B .M. (with WILKINSON, 1.P. & RIDING, J. B.) 2000. The lithostratigraphy, biostratigraphy and hydrogeological significance of the mud springs at Templars Firs, Wootton Bassett, Wiltshire. Proceedings of the Geologists’ Association, 111, 231-245.
Festival of Tomorrow shows go on-demand as thousands enjoy Swindon’s virtual festival and ask for more!
Festival of Tomorrow Going Online The organisers of the Festival of Tomorrow have responded to massive demand to make the talks and shows available on demand. Thus the Festival of Tomorrow is going online.
They’re going to release some of the highlights online over the coming weeks and months.
Thousands of attendees enjoyed a glimpse of the future last weekend at the virtual Festival of Tomorrow. This is Swindon’s annual showcase of the latest in UK research and innovation.
The first online event
The first show going on-line is an in-depth look at how UK research is leading the fight against the coronavirus. It has a panel of leading experts, chaired by BBC radio’s award-winning science presenter, Roland Pease. BBC’s Marty Jopson intrigued visitors with his remote operation of a Zeiss electron microscope. They got a live close-up look at a real SARS-CoV-2 Coronavirus.
The UK Space Agency
Festival visitors were delighted by a surprise last-minute addition to the programme. A rare, informal live Q&A session with Sue Horne, Head of Space Exploration for the UK Space Agency. Swindonians got the chance to ask a wide range of questions about last week’s NASA Perseverance Mars rover landing. And the vital role of UK science in the mission. The event will be ‘premiered’ on YouTube on Friday 25th February.
During the online festival, families enjoyed entertainment from live shows from the BBC One Show’s resident science guy, Marty Jopson. And from science communicator Ian B, Dunne.
Have you heard? – it’s in the stars
The festival featured a virtual planetarium show. And the chance to see a climate observation project. Further highlights included live experiments, demonstrations, and activities to try at home from over 50 exhibitors. They included Intel, the Institute of Physics and many universities and institutes.
ESA Exomars robot
Other highlights:
1.The European Space Agency and a panel of leading researchers sharing how satellites help tackle climate change 2. A science rap show … 3. … and talks from experts on wide-ranging subjects. For example: the big bang, solar observation, the science behind healthier white bread and the psychological impacts of isolation.
Swindonians particularly enjoyed the rare chance for a sneak peek behind the scenes at the Science Museum Group’s National Collection Centre project at Wroughton.
Festival Director, Rod Hebden said ‘the postive response from visitors has bowled us over. Although everyone missed the excitement of a physical event, we had people of all ages telling us how much they appreciated being able to chat to world-leading researchers and experts on the online platform.’
Rod explained ‘Being online enabled us to bring together an amazing range of inspiring speakers and panellists. We had a line-up that simply wouldn’t otherwise have been possible.’
The Festival of Tomorrow
The Festival of Tomorrow is a collaboration between New Elements and STEAM Museum. It’s supported by Swindon-based UK Research and Innovation (UKRI). That’s the public body responsible for overseeing all public-funded research.
“Our vision is of a society in which research and innovation is created, used, challenged, valued and shared by all’ said Alexis Mannion, Head of Public Engagement for UKRI ‘.
And it’s our belief that involving the public in research improves its quality and makes it much more relevant to society.
We’re delighted that so many visitors to the Festival of Tomorrow had the chance to explore: a. how we’re tackling global challenges and … b. … building the world of tomorrow through research and innovation.’
I think it was during the first pandemic lockdown last March, that I came across Greendown Copse in Grange Park. Limited by lockdown to my neighbourhood I took to wandering around hitherto unexplored parts of my neighbourhood. And that’s how I came upon this delightful little treasure tucked away amidst 1980s suburbia.
I knew, from signs left in the copse, that a community group looked after it. But beyond that – nothing. Roger Ogle connected me with someone in the group so what follows came from that source.
Lot No 2
With the proximity of the copse to Lydiard Park, it’s no surprise to learn that the copse, like the housing that surrounds it, once formed part of the Lydiard estate. In 1943 this patch of land went to auction as Lot 2 (they think) as part of the sale of the Lydiard Park estates – including the park itself.
The group managing the copse tell me that they found native English bluebells in the copse, hidden in the undergrowth. This matters because our native bluebell is losing ground to the Spanish variety introduced by the Victorians as a garden plant. They’ve also removed some of the non-native, invasive garden plants that probably landed in the copse via garden waste. In particular the variegated archangel has got a hold and is proving a challenge.
The volunteer group – open to any interested residents – began working with the borough in 2014 and are now working with the Parish council.
The photos below are from the group that take such wonderful care of the copse. Big thanks to them for supplying the information for this blog and the photographs.
Red Campion
Greendown Copse Bird Observations
Greendown Copse, hedgerow and walk are part of the Community Asset designation linked with Lydiard Park. This ran out last September and the community is still awaiting confirmation of its renewal.
SWINDON YOUNG WRITERS AND ARTISTS ON A QUEST FOR LITERARY SUCCESS
Swindon’s Young on Literary Success Quest Young people from Swindon are part way through writing and illustrating their first book. It’s an interactive fantasy adventure, and they need your support to get it published.
Young aspiring writers and artists in Swindon have, throughout the pressures of lockdown and homeschooling, come together to write an illustrated, interactive fantasy novel.
Tomb Raider writer, Rhianna Pratchett has backed the project. But they need your help to get over the final hurdle.
Thus far the Arts Council England have funded the project. But the young people’s enthusiasm has led them to create a work of epic proportions. And that will need an four months and £3,000 to complete.
Keith P. Phillips, one of the authors on Puffin’s Fighting Fantasy series, is tutoring on the Digital Writes project. Said Keith: “We’ve been running workshops in storytelling, creative writing, and illustration over Zoom. And also sharing work through Discord. The students have produced some amazing work. As good as anything from the series. They so deserve to get published.”
Youthful ambition – Swindon’s Young on Literary Success Quest
Some of the young people have ambitions to become writers or artists and feel thrilled to be working with professionals. They’re also very excited at the prospect of seeing their work in print.
Lauren, a participant on the project, said: “We already write and draw things, but nothing comes out of it. It would be cool to see our book in the library and see other people enjoying what we’ve made. Without this we wouldn’t have had a chance to be part of producing a full sized book.”
The extra funding will allow Digital Writes to continue offering workshops. They’ll also be able to invite more young people to take part in creative collaboration.
They’ll then collate the work into a final product of a gamebook. First popular in the 1980s and 1990s, these have had something of a resurgence lately, with titles by Charlie Higson and Rhianna Pratchett.
Swindon visual artist, Keira Georgeson, is also tutoring on the project. Said Keira: “Our young writers and artists are proper authors writing a proper book. We want them to feel the excitement of going into a public library and seeing their book on the shelf. But we’re eager to invite everyone to join. All you need is your imagination and a love of fantasy.”
Lydiard Park Academy
One of the teachers supporting the project is Ms Urquhart from Lydiard Park Academy. She said: “Our students have had a brilliant experience. They’ve grown in creative confidence and developed their social and communication skills. They’ve also gained a wealth of cutting-edge technical expertise. Please support this latest fantastic creation!”
The final work is set for publication in print format. It will be available to buy through Amazon and borrowed from secondary school and public libraries. As a text-based interactive game in app form, it will be available for download from all the usual video game app stores.
Author and Creative writing tutor Keith Phillips
Jazzy with cover-painting
Workshop_leader and visual artist Keira Georgeson
Jazzy sketching book front cover
Get involved
To get involved and secure your place on this unique programme, type “immersive authorship” into your favourite search engine. Or look for Digital Writes on social media.
Erected in 1966-1967, this HQ turns out to be more important than one might imagine. HF Bailey (chief architect of WH Smith’s Estate Department) designed the buildings together with the consulting architects Johns, Slater & Haward. Johns, Slater & Haward, an important post-war architects’ practice.
Thus the Twentieth Century Society has joined Swindon’s Conservation Officer Liz Smith-Gibbons in objecting to plans to demolish the WH Smith warehouse, office block and carpark which it describes as of ‘outstanding national significance.’
The society have submitted the listing application in response to plans to redevelop the site into a large housing estate.
Two sites in one
The WHSmith site at Greenbridge is in fact two sites in one.
Firstly the Swindon Distribution Centre is one of three hubs in England, supplying their over 600 stores and online customers. So, if we’re going to get proper about it, it’s not a warehouse. That’s because it’s part of a wider supply chain. And their UK Support Centre – based in the tower block is home to the High Street trading teams and also forms the base for their Group head office.
Architectural Interest
It appears that the significant architectural interest lies the influence of the Silberkuhl system in the design. That being the brainchild of the German engineer Wilhelm J Silbkuhl (1912-1984). The arched roof comprises three 150 ft wide and 525 ft long curved spans of steel truss girders and reinforced concrete roofing supported on twelve columns. This provided 250,000 sq ft of unobstructed floor space.
The complex also included a six-storey office building.Its design intended to hold administration areas as well as restaurants, welfare and recreation rooms. Not forgetting service equipment areas and an air-conditioned, double-glazed computer and data processing rooms. Further: ‘The office is steel-framed and when built, the exterior was clad in exposed aggregate panels that matched those on the warehouse. Bands of cladding alternate with windows. An off-centre tower counterbalances their horizontal lines.
So now you know!
Greenbridge served also as the location of a number of other industrial buildings designed and constructed by leading architectural practices. These included a small Reliance factory by Team Four (1966-7) and the Torrington Factory by Marcel Breuer & Robert F Gtaje (1966-7).
Pevsner describes the WH Smith warehouse as the “most striking building” on the estate.
The ISBN story
Legend has it that, in 1966, WH Smith created a particular standard book number. This number consisted of a nine-digit code, adopted in 1970 as the international standard number. And that, at length, that become the International Standard Book Number – ISBN – in 1974.
The creation of the ISBN system is attributed to WH Smith’s relocation to Greenbridge. Thus adding historic significance to the site.
But …. the plot thickens … according to someone I know that once worked there, that story is a tad apocryphal. In that WH Smith were using an SBN system as early as 1964 – three years before this building opened. That system became the ISBN system in 1974.
But here’s a nice little factoid for you: the Greenbridge building saw the processing of the first ever UK Internet sale. The order may not have been placed there but certainly the servers in the building recorded it. It’s thought that the order in question was for a copy of A Suitable Boy by Vikram Seth!
WHSmith PLC (also known as WHS or colloquially as Smith’s, and formerly W. H. Smith & Son) is a British retailer headquartered, as we know, in Swindon.
Henry Walton Smith and his wife Anna formed the company in 1792 as a London news vendor. The business remained under Smith family ownership for many years. It saw a large-scale expansion during the 1970s and can lay claim to being the world’s first retail chain.
A rather funky public art piece once stood outside the WH Smith offices called Kinetic Pencils, by Peter Logan – installed in 1991. Sadly they’re long gone but below, for your delectation and edification, are some wonderful archive photos of the kinetic pencils from Richard Wintle.
And now a small number showing construction of the part of this distribution centre that is gone already – referred to by some ex-employees as the peppermint palace:
