The Southbrook Inn Swindon – with thanks as ever to my chum Chris Eley for his photographic expeditions.
The Southbrook Inn Swindon My regular guest blogger, Rebecca Davies, sent me a charming account of an older couple she once visited in Ferndale. It’s a lovely story, well worth a read and it’s further down in this post.
But, as Ferndale is her story’s setting, I decided to tie it in with a Swindon in 50 More Buildings post. One that centres on the Southbrook Inn Swindon. And that happens to be in Ferndale.
About the Southbrook Inn
In this Swindon Advertiser guide to Ferndaleyou’ll find mention of the Southbrook Inn. The pub, now a Grade II listed building, had a former life as the Southbrook farmhouse. And in that existence it was the only building in the area. It’s hard to imagine now isn’t it? That what we know as Swindon once was green fields and not much else.
In 1908, Swindon’s expansion brought the farm, and the land surrounding it, into the borough. 1956 saw the farmhouse converted into a pub with the transfer of the license from the Golden Lion on Bridge Street which had closed that same year.
Says Frances: ‘When the property came up for sale in 1763 Thomas Goddard, Lord of the Manor of Swindon, was ready to sign on the dotted line.Having informed his attorney, Mr Thomas Athawes, that he was ‘very well satisfied with the Title of Southbrook Farm …
… In 1898 Fitzroy Pleydell Goddard sold part of the land to builder William Hobbs, heralding the end of the farming at Southbrook. However despite the continuing development at Gorse Hill north of the railway line, Southbrook Farm retained its buffer of open fields into the 20th century.’
The above are small extracts from Frances’ blog. DO follow the link above to Frances’ blog for the whole Southbrook story.
A bit about Ferndale
Before I move on to Rebecca’s lovely story some Ferndale facts. ‘The area became known as Ferndale after the building of Ferndale Road. Today that runs all the way from Gorse Hill to Cheney Manor. But in Victorian times the road was considerably shorter. All of this changed in 1902 after the building contractor Edwin Bradley began to construct houses along the road.‘
1908 saw the consecretion of All Saints Church, in Southbrook Street. The first building was a temporary one designed for use as schoolrooms.
During the Second World War, enemy bombs hit Ferndale killing twenty-five people in the area. The church held several funerals for those killed in the bombings.
A Swindon Story by Rececca Davies Bsc. (Hons).
This is an account of an elderly couple I once met in Swindon. This must have been in about the middle 90s? I do not recall the exact year. It was some years ago but not a very long time ago. At least it seems so to me. I will admit I have a limited sense of time.
I was delivering something to a Swindon address though what or why evades me. The subjects of my delivery duty were a retired couple. Pleased to see me they invited me in for a cuppa.
Their house was a small one. I do not know which street it was in. It may have been one of those small cul-de-sacs off of Ferndale road. But I am not sure – though I can visualise it even now. It was one of those Victorian terraced houses. You know the sort. They have a front door that takes you straight into the living room. Inside there is an open staircase up to the first floor and the kitchen out the back. If you’ve seen that sort of house you will know what I mean.
A room full of memories
Inside this living room was full of knick knacks. Hanging on the walls, covering the shelves and sideboard and placed on the edge of the stairs. Plates, ornaments, cups, mats, a wide selection of stuff.
It must have been a nightmare to dust. And they were all holiday souvenirs from all over the world. Central Europe, Australia, South America, Hawaii, China, Kenya. You name it – they had a souvenir from it.
Curiosity got the better of me
I wondered if they were someone connected with the big liners, like my Great Uncle Sid. Though I didn’t get the impression of either enough money or of then being globetrotters. My imagination went into overdrive. So it was no good – I had to ask them about it.
It turned out that they had indeed never been abroad. Though yes, they did get their eclectic collection of souvenirs themselves.
It had been their habit to take a weekend trip to the city every month. Each time they spent a weekend in London they visited a different ethnic area. They knew where the obscure ones were too – often in a single cul-de-sac. Though where they got the information on how to locate these places I didn’t find out. Bear in mind I visited pre-internet days – and they had made their journeys before even then.
They met the people and sampled the food and took home to Swindon a souvenir of their adventures. And in doing so they explored the entire world.
London – and then the world
London, like all great cities, has always been an international city. Roman London must have seemed astoundingly multicultural to the rural dwelling Briton. And the city of today is, of course, famed for its diversity. But as for using this attribute for global exploration…well, why not? I’m sure many people have done as my nameless couple did.
The chap did not specify but I suspect he was ex-railway – this is Swindon after all. Both my father and grandfather were in the Works. So he must have had a BR rail pass which would have helped with the travel expenses.
I felt so moved and impressed by their tale – as you might imagine. I asked them if they were going to write a book about their adventures. Or at the very least, they could write a London guide of unsurpassed originality and interest. (Not to mention utility). Yet they regarded their explorations as nothing out of the ordinary at all. This saddened me very much, but I said nothing.
They took their adventures to their grave. But I remember their story and am telling you it now.
This post is not the normal fare for Born Again Swindonian. But I’m sharing a plea for help from a Swindon family because TIME IS OF THE ESSENCE FOR HARRY’S HEALING FUND.
Harry, has the most aggressive type of brain cancer: Grade IV Glioblastoma.
The best way to explain is to share some the text from the families’ go fund me page:
2020 was the year that changed our world; you could say it stopped entirely.
Like many of you reading this now, every so often we’d see or hear of a family pleading for donations that could make it possible to help their loved one.
With sympathy, we’d give what we could. But never imagining that we’d ever experience or understand anything of the horrors they lived through every day. That was, until April 2020, when we were struck with the trauma and instant grief that comes with a life limiting diagnosis: Harry, had the most aggressive type of brain cancer; Grade IV Glioblastoma.
Whilst families up and down the country stood outside their homes clapping for the NHS, we sat anxious vigils outside a hospital ward. Soon to receive the earth-shattering news: that our precious Harry, had the most aggressive type of brain cancer; Grade IV Glioblastoma.
Even more challenging, he presented a VERY rare case. Instead of being in his brain, it had begun and spread throughout his spine. Thus -due to its location – inoperable.
There’s more background information on the GO FUND me page. But let’s cut to the chase and get to what the family need:
What they need
They’ve learned they are limits to Harry’s treatment options under the NHS.
For them to access further options – experimental though they are – they need to look towards private clinics and trials and THEY’VE GOT TO ACT NOW!
First steps
The family must search specialists far and wide for drug protocols and supplements with potential to make Harry’s treatment more effective.
They also must see if he’s eligible for some of the experimental treatment going on in German clinics involving multi peptide vaccines and immunotherapy.
None of these further options will be possible without the generosity of others. So they plead to you now . Please give what you can so that we can continue to try to keep this extraordinary man in our lives
The family must search specialists far and wide for drug protocols and supplements with potential to make Harry’s treatment more effective.
They also must see if he’s eligible for some of the experimental treatment going on in German clinics involving multi peptide vaccines and immunotherapy.
There are so many good causes I know. I personally feel like I’m forever putting my hand into my virtual pocket. I understand compassion fatigue. We none of us can help everyone no matter how much we might want to. But if you can – even only a small amount – please do. This really IS a matter of life and death. Time IS running out for Harry.
About Liddington Hill Swindon One of many splendid things about Swindon is the great number of parks and open spaceswe enjoy. Both in and around the town. And Liddington Hill is a mere one of those areas of great natural beauty that envelope and caress the town near and below it.
A literary circular walk
Liddington Hill circular walk 4.5 miles – allow at least 2.5hours Terrain: No stiles, can get muddy, one steep descent
On this walk you can discover Shipley Bottom – ooh er missus. That, it seems, is a fine example of an enclosed coombe or short valley described by writer and poet Edward Thomas (1878-1917) as ‘walled on every side by down and sky,’
The walk follows a route used by a somewhat forgotten poet, Charles Hamilton Sorley (1895-1915). Sorley studied at Marlborough College from 1908 to 1913. His experience on the downs inspired such poems as Barbary Castle.
On Liddington Hill you’ll find a memorial to two famous sons of Swindon: Richard Jefferies (1848-1887) and Alfred Williams (1877-1930). They both wrote about the hill. Well I say that – but as far as I know, all that remains is the triangulation pillar used to replace a dedication plaque to Alfred Williams. American soldiers during WWII used that plaque for target practice and damaged it. It’s now on display in the Richard Jefferies’ museum at Coate.1940 saw a replacement plaque installed but that got removed by persons unknown, never to be seen again.
The plaque now at the Richard Jefferies Museum
See the bullet holes!
The self-taught Williams described Swindon railway life and Wiltshire villages. See my book Secret Swindon for more about him and Richard Jefferies. Scholars of Jefferies believe his wanderings across the downs of Wiltshire inspired his rapport with the natural world. That was something he expressed in The Story of My Heart – his autobiography.
The two views that we see here, looking down on Swindon from Liddington Hill, are a wee bit changed from when Williams and Jefferies’ day.
Photographs above courtesy of Robert Slade
Marker on Liddington Hill – about Liddington Hill
Plaque on Liddington Hill
Signpost
Photographs courtesy of Royston Cartwright
Alfred Williams’ poem: Liddington Hill
On this Poetry Atlas websitethere’s a poem written by Williams’ about this beloved Liddington Hill. Here’s the first stanza:
The friendship of a hill I know Above the rising down, Where the balmy souther breezes blow But a mile or two from town; The budded broom and heather Are wedded on its breast, And I love to wander thither When the sun is in the west.
Alfred Williams
Liddington Hill as a Starfish Site
There’s a relatively intact control bunker for a co-located Starfish and Quick Light (QL) site at Liddington Hill overlooking Swindon.
The bunker lies at the edge of the small copse on the eastern summit of the hill, Liddington Clump. You can see those trees from the M4 motorway.
Control bunker for a co-located Starfish and Quick Light (QL) site at Liddington Hill
Starfish sites were large-scale night-time decoys created during the Blitz to simulate burning British cities. The intention of them was diverting German bombers from their intended targets so they’d drop their cargo over the countryside. You can read more about Starfish sites here.
The GWR Reading Rooms Rodbourne Swindon – built in 1904
Between Secret Swindon and Swindon in 50 Buildings, I’ve given good coverage to Swindon’s Mechanics’ Institution itself in my published books. So this series of Swindon in 50 more buildings gives me a chance to give mention of the GWR reading rooms in Rodbourne.
Where are the GWR Rodbourne Reading Rooms and what are they?
Well the location speaks for itself – well Rodbourne Road to be specific. Just a little way down from the Outlet Centre.
‘The Rodbourne branch was built in 1904 and became known locally as the Reading Rooms. The ground floor consisted of a reading room, hall, office and yard. While on the first floor there was a games room.
The building is presently occupied by the North Wiltshire branch of the St John’s Ambulance Brigade. Evening brigade meetings and daytime first aid courses for companies in the North Wilts. area are provided.’
So Rodbourne’s GWR reading rooms then are a branch of the Mechanics’ Institution. The main one in the heart of the railway village in Emlyn Square.
This blog from Swindon in the Past Lane tells us about the architect of Rodbourne Reading Rooms – Robert James Beswick. Hailing from Manchester, Robert came to Swindon in the mid 1870s. He became articled to another popular local architect, WH Read, and was in practice from around 1874. In 1884 he wed Emilie Matilda Elliott, the daughter of John Elliott, a painter in the works. The blog explains that Beswick enjoyed a prolific career during which he designed several Swindon landmark buildings – this one included. But to say more would be spoliers! Read the Past Lane blog for the full lowdown on his architectural output.
The Mechanics’ Institution building served as a venue for New Swindon’s social activities, entertainment and educational activities.
In its glory days it offered a reading room, a theatre and a library – see Secret Swindon for so much more on all of that. It also boasted cold-water baths (before the building of the Milton Road Baths), a coffee room, a dining room, lecture rooms and public meeting rooms.
In the first instance the Mechanics’ Institution was accommodated within the Works. The institution moved in 1855 to a permanent building in the railway village.
The membership of its library grew fast, necessitating the opening of branches in Rodbourne and Gorse Hill.
The Mechanics’ Institute, Emlyn Square, in the GWR railway village, Swindon
Purton Road Bridge Swindon – something I’ve seen often but have never thought too much about until Roger Ogle posted the photograph below on Facebook. That prompted me to ask him for more information about it.
Purton Road Bridge Swindon – photo by Roger Ogle
West and north joined
Back in 1993 the Link Magazine, created by Roger Ogle, covered the building of the new bridge.
The extract reads – paraphrased
‘A new bridge, marrying art and engineering and making access easier between west and north Swindon opened five months ahead of schedule.
The £1.25 million structure spans the Swindon to Glocs railway line and is the town’s biggest piece of public art.
The bridge parapets form a 140ft long relief sculpture frieze created by artist Richard Perry. The frieze incorporates motifs of transport, industry and environment.
The then Thamesdown District council and Wiltshire County Council joined together to commission the project. It formed part of plans made 15 years ago. At that point the two councils agreed on the building of Roughmoor and Shaw. The project included:
a. A smaller bridge over the nearby River Ray and … b. … 700 metres of new road joining Moredon with Sparcells.
The then mayor of Thamesdown, Doreen Dart, observed that the bridge was a milestone in the town’s development. She went on to say that it represented a link between the western expansion and future development in the north of the town …
… Although the old northern road will at length become a footpath/cycle route from which you can see the artwork, there’s no obvious pedestrian route to allow viewing.’
Link Magazine January 1994
Other posts about public art
This blog holds a great number of posts about public art in Swindon. I must have written about most of it at some time or another. Depending on how well I’ve organised and categorised my posts you should find most of them in this blog category here: https://swindonian.me/category/public-art-sculpture/
